Project Eveningland

7/6/2023 Thursday

I enjoyed a nice leisurely morning. Ana was puttering around the house when I came downstairs. I got a selfie with Ana and her cattle dog, Lucy, who is a little bit sweet on me since I stayed with her and kept her safe during the fireworks.

It was so hot today… [David Letterman audience]: “how hot was it?!” It was so hot that all the rocks in Rocksylvania melted and now it’s a bike trail. It’s so hot that I watched an ice cream truck burst into flames.

I helped a tiny turtle across the trail late morning. He was alive but might have been injured. Later I watched a bee and moth fight to the death. The bee won. Nature is fucking harsh, man.

I ended up being profoundly grateful to Past Doug for fitting in those extra three miles last night. Today’s conditions would have made a midday 15-miler extraordinarily unpleasant. As it was I had to deploy extreme-heat countermeasures, including “drying breaks” for my feet. Taking off my shoes and socks and placing my feet against cool rock brings the swelling and redness down. Also it lets me dry off a bit—I just spent 9 hours drenched in sweat, beginning to end. Eh, I might have mostly dried at lunch.

The gnats and mosquitos and flies gathered in a cloud around me whenever I stopped. I guess I understand better why two people complimented my hat yesterday. It is the only thing keeping the bugs from landing all over my wet, sweaty head.

The trail’s entry to New York (at mile 1369–nice) is a rough one. Many minor scrambles over big rolling masses of rock. Lots of jawbreaker tread, though it’s not so bad in the dry heat. The heat and the piney, rocky ridges put me in mind of hiking in the foothills west of Fort Collins. Sun-baked pine needles smell the same everywhere I suppose.

I found a lovely grove of pine to sit under for an afternoon “drying break,” but had to move right away because there were ticks on me already and I hadn’t even sat down! (I could tell they were fresh).

I called for my shuttle to the hostel at 5:45, precisely 15 minutes earlier than the 6PM estimate I gave shortly before lunch. They’re gonna have to start calling me Precision. I got picked up by a super tall liberal guy driving a Subaru. Oh yeah, I thought, this is New York, not Georgia.

I put in an order to a deli that delivers. Deli Vert would be a great name for a French deli that delivers and is painted green. I am profoundly tired. I can barely move tonight. By 6:40PM, the heat index fell to 88. No idea what it was earlier but definitely hotter!

Today brought wonderful news of imminent opportunities to see old friends.