Project Eveningland

A Descent into Madness & Thru-Hiking


Hygge in Hamburg (Day 122)

6/16/2023 Friday

I picked a great day to rest—rain and tornado watches/warnings all over the state according to the TV in the laundromat, where I am enjoying a comforting slice of normal life.

This place is brightly lit and clean. There are nice decorations and plants. It’s been a while since I did laundry at a mat. I used to go to Dirty Deeds in Athens Ohio. I’d drive or walk up a few blocks to do 1-2 loads every fortnight. That’s all it took, towels and all. Funny thing is, that’s about all it takes at home now! I started dressing like a fashion designer a few years ago, meaning that I wear the same thing every day. I just don a navy blue t-shirt and jeans every morning when I’m not hiking. It’s so much simpler! Remember that movie cliche where a dull character opens their closet and it’s all the same thing? Young me watched those scenes with interest.

There’s a friendly woman in her late 40s or early 50s folding towels and blankets on the other side of a huge table from me. She seems organized and put together. I feel like I’m hanging out with her. There was a show on the TV with real video of people fighting in a hotel lobby. A woman fights free of the people holding her back, ostensibly to help her unconscious husband. However, once the woman ascertains that he is alive she takes off her purse (she’s wearing a two-piece bikini) and charges at the other people again. I changed the channel to the weather.

There’s a tween girl with her working class parents. She does some dance moves in an open space. Her dad, about my age, gets up to test her by doing a combo himself and then she repeats, to his approving nod.

Last night I walked down to the gas station to get some snacks and something for breakfast. Had a strawberry yogurt parfait that was good, but a little too good. Maybe a shit ton of sugar in there? I also ate, sigh, a breakfast flavored (themed?) Hot Pocket, literally the best frozen breakfast item that they had at Rutter’s gas station last night. I could have gone out this morning but I really wanted to eat breakfast in and then go back to bed for deep rest.

I got a burger for lunch at the same bbq place next door. I also had them make me a cold turkey sandwich for dinner. I think I won over the clerk with just sincere, gentle politeness. No flattery or charm; almost all tone. That is deeply satisfying to do—like picking up a dart casually, in passing, and throwing it right at the bullseye. Then you just walk away, NBD.

Took a long afternoon nap. And then more leisure time. It’s going to take some practice to get good at leisure when I get home. Hiking the AT makes a person incredibly busy nonstop for months on end. I miss waking up and knowing that if I feel worn out on any given day, all I have to do is walk and drive and sit.

Part of the comfort of Hamburg, for me anyway, is its resemblance to many Pittsburgh neighborhoods. I feel so at home! People in Pennsylvania will occasionally learn in conversation that I studied at Carnegie Mellon and you can tell that Pennsylvanians who’ve associated with it are proud to share their own connections with the place. It’s lovely and sweet. If you feel squeamish about honoring robber barons, here’s an alternative way to think about the prestige of Carnegie Mellon: lots of stuff that goes on at CMU would make Andrew Carnegie spin in his grave.

Ok, enough musings for the night. It’s been an effective rest day with just the right amount of human contact. Wish this AirBnB smelled better at over $100 per night.

I’m attaching some pics Neil was kind enough to share. These show some things/angles I wouldn’t think to photograph.

Us staring right at the sun to capture the view from the bridge.
Neil and me—aren’t we a dish?
I have always sort of wondered what I look like walking away. A lot of the bulk you see on top of and on the right side of my pack are two full bags of rice cakes.
A blurry shot of me from the background of one of Neil’s photos. Isn’t it interesting to see how you look when you don’t know you’re being photographed?
This pic I took of my stuff at the AirBnB.


2 responses to “Hygge in Hamburg (Day 122)”

  1. Aww, nice post and great pics. Appreciate Neil’s perspective. I’m not sure if I could ever accept gas station food, but desperate times… I guess.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Pittsburghers love pittsburgh.  It’s always been that way.

      Like

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About The Blog

I’m Doug Cloud, an inveterate thru-hiker, believer in The One Trail, writer, rhetorician, researcher. This blog catalogs my journeys, particularly my 2023 1500-mile hike on the Appalachian and Colorado Trails. Other journeys may be added. Or not. I go by several mottoes as a thru-hiker:

1. Work the problem.
2. Throw money at the problem.
3. Go for an FKT (funnest known time).
4. ABC (always be thru-hiking).

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