Project Eveningland

6/6/2023 Tuesday

Great sleep last night. During a morning privy visit, I propped open the door so I could breathe non pit-privy-scented air.

Since I left Virginia, the trail has cut through a narrow green corridor, with lots of parks, parking lots, and road crossings. I’m fine with it, but it gives many miles of the trail that “trashy” look it gets near human settlement.

I began to see some cool old cabins along the trail, including one with a magnificent giant rhododendron in front of it that had deep purple flowers. In the same area I got passed by one hiker after another. They all had that lean “ultra” look, but some appeared too clean and coiffed to be thru hikers. It could just be that they’re young and beautiful and fresh. Or maybe it was a mixed group of thru-hikers and college-aged section hikers.

I entered Pine Grove Furnace State Park. The big smelting furnace is still there, and a typical example of that sort of thing. They always look otherworldly to me—real ziggurat energy. I ascended rickety stairs to get to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel, which isn’t a private hostel, but is instead overseen by some public entity. I had a resupply package waiting there. It has an air of slight neglect. The old fireplace in the kitchen is massive.

There was no one there. I just walked in and found my package. I hung out in the deserted front rooms and packed my food.

Just down from the mansion is a tiny general store that serves burgers and similar. It’s the home of the “half gallon challenge” (Google it if you’re unfamiliar). Lots of hikers had gathered. Bodie told me he’d gotten 2/3 of the way through the challenge before calling it quits, but that was while I’d been up at the mansion.

The “ultra” looking folks were there. At least a few must be traditional NoBo hikers because more than one took the challenge. When I arrived a young woman with short hair was finishing. The others were rushing her to beat the fastest time. Or maybe just not be the slowest. These people have a fucking problem. Does everything have to be a race? From across the outdoor eating area I shouted, “take your time and enjoy this life-changing experience!” I wasn’t giving advice. It was a semi-polite way of saying, “shut up about everything being a race!” OK, maybe my heckling was about more than them.

I ordered lunch. God those were good fries. But they didn’t have any dipping sauces! Malpractice! I decided to skip the ice cream. I’ve been trying a new treatment for my stomach and it’s better, but not that much better.

After lunch I resumed my hike through the park, passing an older man who peppered me with questions. Eventually I was able to outrun him. The trail follows wide bike trails for a while, past a picturesque swimming/fishing lake that was once a deep quarry. What mysteries lurk in its depths?

Not much elevation gain/loss today, but some rocky tread. It’s actually helpful to have some rockiness here—a good warm up for the more rugged terrain north of Duncannon. The plan is for my buddy Neil to join me for a few days starting at that point.

I stopped in a clearing mid afternoon to rest my feet and eat a snack. The sky darkened and rain threatened. I resumed hiking with my rain jacket on for the first time in what feels like weeks. No rain came though. Just a drop here and there.

I passed the turnoff to a shelter. There was a small clear creek right there, and the shelter was .2 off trail, so I decided to just grab water and push on a few miles to a campsite. On the way I passed a line of railroad cars on an old siding.

Tonight’s site is a tiny one. Maybe room for 1-2 other tents. It’s a tiny clearing on a gentle forest slope with minimal traffic noise. I’ve had a social few days! The quiet and solitude will help me be at my best.

I got in a phone call with Dad and Mom before rain came and the patter on my tent became too loud to hear well.

I’ve booked a room for tomorrow because the trail goes through town(s?) and the only camping opportunities are too close or too far. I think there is a church or two that’ll let you tent for free. That’s swell of them.

Word is there are wildfires north of here. I suspected as much when I saw the color of the sunlight against the ground near my tent. Smoke gives the world a tinge.