Project Eveningland

6/3/2023 Saturday

A strong wind blew into camp at 10PM last night. All at once the trees began swaying. Like it had been scheduled.

Things looked a little brighter in the morning. More and more I’ve been thinking that since at least one part of my body (but usually several parts) needs special attention, it might be smart to just plan for a ten mile average pace from here on out. Why not just accept it? Getting near the halfway point changes things. It’s made me more confident that I can finish the trail, even if it has to be slow. I’ll just grind it out if I have to. It’s worked thus far!

It isn’t as hot as yesterday, but it’s still uncomfortably warm and humid. I’ve been using my handkerchief to mop the sweat from my face. The mountain laurel has really got some momentum going. It is in full bloom through this section and the air is richly scented. This is what perfume is going for, I thought.

To our surprise we met up with S’more at one of the first water crossings. I thought he’d been headed to the next shelter when we saw him late last night at Deer Lick. He had had a little AT “miracle” the night before: he’d found three unopened Sierra Nevada beers.

I kept thinking about what S’more said the other day about how he wonders if people back home will recognize him because he has changed so much. I’d say more, because it is a compelling story, but it’s not my story to tell. Weird extraneous detail about S’more: there are movie stars and celebrities who would gladly shell out serious money to have their hair and beard look half as good as his does without any apparent effort. I find this reassuring—there are still some things money can’t buy.

It wasn’t as hot as yesterday but it was humid and sunny all day. The tread has turned more rocky, which strikes a light fear in me because people say that PA is even rockier north of Duncannon. I waited too long to get new shoes again. And my ankle support wrap tore. But I have a plan.

I am spending two nights in a Pentecostal church, if you can believe that. They run a little hostel. When I heard it was a hiker “ministry,” I decided to go. Part of this journey has been me making peace not so much with religion as with religious people. It’s a kind of difference that I want to work across more effectively. This may not be a good choice—I’ll be able to say more later, in the book. This kind of thing is much easier when you have strong boundaries.

My lodging choice led to lots of engagement, though not the kind I imagined. I ended up talking politics with two brothers, 16 and 18, who just started their thru-hike at Harpers Ferry eight days ago. Their mom is with them for a long segment to help them get their feet under them (keeping fed, clean, etc.). They’re from Cincinnati and I took a shine to them immediately. These two young men are the same age as three of my nephews. But, quite unlike my nephews, they really really want to talk politics, and think it’s exciting to talk to a professor.

What a sweet pair of brothers. They are “tight,” they said, which is pretty amazing for brothers two years apart (whom I’d expect to fight). It made me miss my nieces and nephews. And feel a bit of relief that they are not political. That stuff is tiring to debate!

Bodie and I split laundry. I rented a private room so I could have a quiet space to write in. I’m getting more strict about that.

I’ll take a day off tomorrow and do a quick shop to get enough food to get me to my next resupply box.