Project Eveningland

6/2/2023 Friday

It stayed warm though the night. I woke up on the “sunny side:” with it being so warm, I don’t have to dread taking off my sweatshirt.

I struck up an engaging conversation with Bodie, who’d tented at the next spot over. It was so nice to talk with someone that I told him I’d wait for him to pack up if he wanted company hiking today. He did. On the way out, I also talked with Pusher, a super quiet guy who had stayed in the shelter alone. When I asked about mice in the shelter he opened right up and told me that it didn’t have mice problems because it is a new shelter. Then at my request, he explained the choices the builders had made that make the shelter unfriendly to mice. Fascinating. And the guy seemed to just know this stuff—he called it “common sense”—despite having no formal training. He was very young, too.

Bodie is doing lower miles because his tendons are bothering him. Mine are always bothering me! He calls his pace abysmal and I objected, not least of all because it is ever so slightly faster than mine.

The heat settled in a smothering mass. My drinking water was practically body temperature. The descent from High Rock was rocky as heck. Speaking of High Rock, there are still some tiny places on it that have not yet been covered in graffiti. Could we please cover that naked rock with some relationship updates? Does K love M? What year were they here? Inquiring minds want to know.

I didn’t realize that Pen Mar Park, six or so miles into the day, was fancy enough to have picnic shelters and even a concession stand. The concession stand is closed but the restrooms have working outlets and there’re shady resting spots aplenty. I decided to skip the hottest 4-5 hours of the day and wait them out in the shade. Then I’ll hike this evening (but 100% definitely for sure not all night!) Bodie asked to join and I said, in so many words, “heck yeah!” It’s easier to do something like that—hike against the grain by sitting out the middle of the day—with someone else to legitimate it. Also Bodie is a real smart guy and there’s a lot of overlap in our worldviews.

One nice thing about siesta blazing (taking a long—hours long—break during the hottest part of the day to skip the heat and possibly have a nap) is that you meet everyone behind you on trail. It’s a cast of characters that shifts around you. We talked with “Bob” (trail name for a woman hiker around my age). Then a younger woman chatted with us—lots of shared ground. She sat with us while she waited on her pizza to be delivered…to the park!

We ordered food too. I got a sandwich and some garlic bread. Huge meal! Nearby restroom! Trash cans! Much impress!

S’more joined us and ordered a chicken Parmesan sandwich from the same pizza place. He got two sandwiches even though he ordered one. It’s an AT miracle!

Eating town food will stretch my food a bit. Nice to have some social time too. What a fantastic crowd.

Around 3:15, I hiked back into the heat. My stomach went haywire. Could have been exacerbated by the rich food, the extreme heat, or my general lack of moral fiber. In any case, it’s another day cut short. Stopping short gives me a chance to feel better tomorrow.

It’s been a rough outing since Harpers Ferry, and there’re things I have to leave out. If you can believe that! But what I can leave in is that I’m dealing with some pain and discomfort and tonight I’m feeling demoralized by my problems. There’s nothing to do but keep trying, keep adjusting, and hope that things improve.

The trail entered Pennsylvania today! Wow, that was a quick couple of states. The official, actual halfway mark is a coupla days away. Might stop at a hostel tomorrow.

Let’s end on some positive notes. I feel very lucky. My parents have been sending food packages that have been enormously helpful. I was surprised by how much of a difference it makes to have my resupply waiting for me when I get to town. Seeing how well the resupply-via-mail-drop system worked for Wedge inspired me to try that approach again, and that’s lovely. Also I made new friends today. And hiked an OK pace despite profound heat.

It’s cooling off. Oh thank glob. And there’s a whippoorwill.