Project Eveningland

5/14/2023 Sunday

The deluge never came. Just gentle overnight showers. The fir needles beneath my tent were wonderful and kept things nice and dry. No underbrush. Today was filled with natural wonders.

I walked the gentle incline out of Pinefield Shelter area. For several miles the trail was overgrown: bordered by tall, wet grasses which soaked my feet and legs and also covered them in seeds. Spiderwebs crisscrossed the trail, sometimes visible in the morning sunlight, but often not. I swung my trekking poles in front of me to avoid getting a face full. I could have gotten out my bugnet, which also would have protected my face from spiderwebs but it was in my pack.

I came upon a straight section of trail along a hillside. About a half dozen little turkey chicks (mini-gobblers) were crossing the trail. I waited for the mother but couldn’t see her. When I got close she made herself seen! A big giant turkey flapping and squawking. I gave her plenty of space and felt bad about stressing her out. There were bunnies. And a green and orange toad of some kind.

The trail ducked out to cross the road or traverse small parking lots every few miles. No stately stone walls to sit on however. I lunched at the entrance to an old fire road, leaning against my pack, a sitpad between me and the gravel, my feet resting on the chain blocking access to the road.

The protein bars have really helped fill in my diet. They are easy to eat while walking. I eat tons of other stuff too, but those really give long lasting energy. My stomach is much calmer on trail, but lately I have been dealing with some real discomfort. Burning through so many calories a day has created other issues for me.

A few hours after lunch I reached the turnoff for Hightop Shelter, which boasts a spring and a privy. The spring flowed directly out from under a tree. The mouldering privy featured unfathomable horrors, but also nice fresh wood chips to toss in. Looking down into its depths is both irresistible and deeply disturbing. A really nice privy overall though. Very well maintained.

From there it was a miles long ascent to Hightop itself. Lots of day hikers about, some birding, all smelling impossibly fresh. One of the thru-hikers I met in Waynesboro was chilling in his hammock near the top of Hightop. Kind of a Jeffrey Dahmer look, but seems nice enough.

It was hot and I was sweaty. Few good places to rest. My stomach really got pissed. I found an OK little clearing and rested and ate and drank. When I first sat down, hearing traffic at a road crossing below, I thought about trying to call a shuttler and get a ride to one of the lodges in the park, cost be damned. But my problems could be fixed right there on the trail. I just needed some time to regroup.

I got water from a slow little creek above a road crossing. Had to collect it a liter at a time. Then I spilled dirty water on one bottle and had to empty it and start over. All in all a very demoralizing afternoon. After that it was more up-and-down, but nothing sustained enough to really suck. There was a beautiful set of rock stairs built into a giant rock field.

Tons of bugs and long grasses and those brown centipedes. But also incredible wildflowers today in every color. Pink and white, tiny yellow clusters, more three-petaled violet ones, short, small purple ones that lurk beneath other plants. More lady’s slipper orchids. If only we’d had some Indian paintbrush—I didn’t see anything orange.

Also some excellent bird sightings! There was a bright red and black one. My favorite was an aquamarine little guy who escorted me down the trail for a half a mile it seemed. He kept landing artfully atop tree stumps and rock piles, hopping down the trail as I went.

I stopped at an intersection with another fire road to eat dinner. I had 1.75 liters still, and the heat was breaking. I decided to eat dinner and hike on. My plan was to get 17 miles in for the day and then stop at the first tent spot I saw. Miles and miles went by. 17 came and went. Nothing. It turned into a 20-mile day. I reached a fee-based campsite and shelled out $30, which seems steep just to pitch a tent. But there’s a bathhouse and a camp store with sandwiches that’ll be open in the morning. Might even be able to do laundry.

I’m back on schedule, but I don’t know if I need to stay on schedule. Had planned to stay at a lodge but it’s expensive and if I can just get stuff at a campground I’m happy to do that. It’s less stressful than a big tourist hotspot. Wish the campers next to me would turn off their car. Instead they started a second vehicle. Gee whiz.

I want to hike more in the evening hours. I’m going to plan to take a longer midday break—maybe even nap if there’s a shelter. I can do a little writing during the hottest part of the day and then hike in the cool evening hours. The golden hour is good walking. Too good to miss. I’m at mile 918.