Project Eveningland

5/6/2023 Saturday

I climbed up out of Cow Camp Gap shelter area this morning and exchanged some texts with Mom about her trip to REI to help me with my air mattress.

They gave her some bad information about their return policy, which REI corrected by email this afternoon. I write a stern customer service email, what can I say? They were chill about it and good for them. I have so many conversations with day hikers about gear and what to buy and where to buy it—it’s a real money maker for them to have me out here. Often those gear conversations are against my will!

Today was a bit like that: me feeling antisocial. And a little cynical here and there. People stop in a way that says “I want to make trail conversation with you” but I just keep walking. I don’t have it in me today.

I am back up at an altitude where spring is still very much in progress. And the trail more or less “dwells” there. That means fewer water sources and lots of exposure. When I popped open my sunscreen bar (it looks like stick deodorant) this afternoon to reapply, the suction created by my removing the cap pulled out and broke the last pieces of the bar. I’ll have to apply the remnants by hand and make them last two more days.

I’m also running low on food. Well, “low” in the sense that my body wants more than I have. I’m still putting away over 3000 calories per day.

My favorite parts of the walk today were the stunning views of deep green mountains and the beautiful water features. The latter included at least two of those magical springs that just come right out of a hillside, clear and cool. I walked past one that was in the middle of a dry stretch and thank goodness my thirst prompted me to look at the map. It was down an unmarked side trail just over a tenth behind me.

I lunched there, above the spring, with my back reclined against my pack, my butt on my sitpad, and my feet elevated against a tall, dead tree. Most of the tree was long gone—just the huge moss-covered trunk and a few large branches remained. Its narrow strip of shade was a perfect respite. The trees in that area still had only tiny clusters of leaves here and there.

I hardly look at the elevation profile on the map anymore. It’s getting easier to walk uphill for long periods. But food is really a limiting factor. I tried some new stuff this time out and got good results. I foresee an imminent improvement to my nutrition and thereby mood. I just need to get to Waynesboro first.

I’ve got two days to do about 34 miles. I don’t want the second day to be a full 17. And yet I don’t want to do a 20 tomorrow either particularly.

There’s a blue blaze I’m considering taking tomorrow. It’s a shorter, lower-elevation alternate route, according to the app, but it also warns that it’s more rugged. There’re comments from other hikers on the app encouraging AT hikers to take the alternate with promises of gorgeous creek-side walking and waterfalls. Gosh, I think I’d better take it so I can tell you about that. I’m running out of things to say about ridge hiking.

I’m gonna sleep on it and decide tomorrow. Sleeping at The Priest shelter area tonight.