Project Eveningland

2/22/2023 Wednesday

Early this morning I had to use my headphones as a white noise machine because the snoring nearby in the shelter area was really something. I slept in until just after seven. Most folks had already left or were leaving shortly. I ate my extra hefty breakfast and then set off, in no particular hurry for once.

A thick dense fog rolled in and the woods felt very empty. I took a break to eat the very last of my food. I walked into Dicks Creek Gap (the point from which I would access the hostel and resupply) with no water, no food, and no complaints. Nailing a 3.5 day food carry—precisely—is pretty damn good. If you aren’t yourself a backpacker perhaps a metaphor will help. That’s like holding a gun with one hand, squinting, and shooting a can off a fence a half a football field away. It’s a half court shot, nothing but net. This is the first time it’s happened to me in 11 years of backpacking.

I walked to Around the Bend feeling quite good. I didn’t even bother to hitchhike the half mile down the road. Felt a little soreness in my Achilles but nothing a zero can’t fix.

Around the Bend is a fun little hostel! There was some confusion and frustration with check-in but after that the place seemed friendlier and friendlier. There is one heck of a chonky cat hanging out and a regular size cat and various small dogs—poodle-type affairs.

The thing about a hostel is that they have everything you need, or a good one does anyway. I needed a lint roller—good luck at a hotel! At a hotel, I feel lucky if they have operable laundry.

I have a tiny cabin with two beds. I’ll be alone in there tonight. Tomorrow Ben and I will spend the day together, by phone (well a few hours anyway). We both put in earpieces and just talk. I’ve done it on a few resupply days and it’s nourishing. Being able to stay in touch while hiking makes the trail very humane.

Two very “hard” looking military guys with big bushy beards showed up at the shelter area late last night, and are here at the hostel. I thought they were southbounders because they have that tan, lean, “beef jerky” look that seasoned thru hikers get after a thousand miles or so. Nope. They just got on trail. That’s what they look like in real life now that they are retired (young).

I told Will he could have the other bed in my tiny cabin on Thursday night because he tried to reserve an extra night to double zero and they didn’t have any space. He was gonna tent in the rain. He seems like a real analytical, organized guy—my kind of people.

Went to take a nap this afternoon in said tiny cabin. It’s really just an insulated shed with windows and two beds. It’s quite nice but would it kill them to put a lamp in there? Overhead lighting is so harsh!

Couldn’t sleep in the afternoon so I spent some time socializing and looking through the tiny outfitter they have at the hostel. Went into town for dinner at a brewery. It was good enough but the floors were sticky and no one seemed in any hurry to wipe any surfaces. We also grabbed Dairy Queen and walked to a Walgreens where I got a terrific deal on some nuts.

It’ll be a four man group headed out on Friday morning, none of whom had met each other more than eight days ago: me, Bill, Mitch, and Will. We’re going to do a conservative 3.5 days to Franklin. It’ll probably rain every day and from what I remember of the elevation gain, it’s quite a climb.

First, though, a rest day. All that’s on my schedule tomorrow is a lie-in and a trip to the grocery store.