Project Eveningland

6/8/2023 Thursday

The smoke had thickened by morning into a haze. I decided to do a backwards (southbound) 12-mile slackpack and stay at the same B&B again tonight. I’ve had enough introspection for a while. Let’s talk scenery from an unusual and varied day on the AT.

6/7/2023 Wednesday

Yesterday and the day before I felt something in me shift. The trail today was out of a dream.

6/6/2023 Tuesday

Great sleep last night. During a morning privy visit, I propped open the door so I could breathe non pit-privy-scented air.

6/5/2023 Monday

I burned my mouth on some peach oatmeal this morning. After breakfast—or before, I can’t remember—I grabbed a rare morning shower. Rev told us that the tread was indeed favorable between here and Duncannon.

6/4/2023 Sunday

The tiny window air conditioner hummed nicely last night and kept me asleep until a very reasonable hour. I heard the tiniest sound sometime after 7:30. Was that a knock?

6/3/2023 Saturday

A strong wind blew into camp at 10PM last night. All at once the trees began swaying. Like it had been scheduled.

6/2/2023 Friday

It stayed warm though the night. I woke up on the “sunny side:” with it being so warm, I don’t have to dread taking off my sweatshirt.

6/1/2023 Thursday

The kids weren’t nearly so loud in the morning! One of the adults chatted me up briefly and told me they were 8th graders. She asked where I was headed and I said, “Katahdin.”

5/31/2023 Wednesday

The thru-hikers are getting more and more spread out. I see a few in passing. To clarify, they are passing me—I’m not passing any other thru hikers. I’m still sore today but trying a new kind of stretch and doing lower mileage.

5/30/2023 Tuesday

I have a morning routine in Harpers. They know me at the bakery. After breakfast I paid my tab at the inn, packed up, and headed out. I wasn’t feeling confident about the miles ahead given the stiffness and soreness in my lucky foot.

5/29/2023 Monday

The town was ghostly quiet after the tumult of the weekend. It was downright relaxed in the morning when I went down for my breakfast sandwich across the street.

5/28/2023 Sunday

Bit of a rough morning. I’m definitely “hung over” from hiking a long day yesterday. But oh the town of Harpers Ferry in the light.

5/27/2023 Saturday

When Ben and I talked by phone just before seven PM, I told him that so much had already happened today that I didn’t want anything else interesting to happen.

5/26/2023 Friday

Wasn’t feeling it last night; not feeling it this morning. I walked three miles of rocky, rugged nonsense and had a series of epiphanies. Some ideas that’ve been stewing came together. The relationship between the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) and thru hikers isn’t good. The pandemic brought it to new lows. I think I know why and how we might go about fixing it.

5/25/2023 Thursday

Perhaps that tent spot last night wasn’t as level as it looked. My phone lost 30% charge while off overnight. It wasn’t that cold, what gives?

5/24/2023 Wednesday

Last night and this morning I tried some PT exercises from last summer on my foot. A nerve glide and one other stretch seemed to bring me significant relief from the pain and stiffness I’d felt yesterday. Huzzah!

5/23/2023 Tuesday

In the morning, my parents drove me from our hotel to Gravel Springs Gap. It cost me $30 to get us into the park, even though they’re just dropping me off and coming right back out again. Today was another “slack pack” day because I’d left much of my gear and a resupply at a hostel in Front Royal where I’m staying tonight.

5/18/2023 Thursday

My tent site last night was extremely rocky. I bent another two tent stakes. It didn’t look rocky; it looked grassy. There was some light snoring. That privy though!

5/17/2023 Wednesday

Last night I was kicking myself for blowing so much money on such a mediocre hotel room. Then the sunset views—and the pleasure of coming back to a softly lit, clean room after dinner—won me over. It was cold and wet this morning when I stepped out onto the balcony.