Project Eveningland

7/27/2023 Thursday

I hadn’t realized that this was a disliked part of the CT. Commenters in the navigation app, and other hikers on trail today, suggest that what comes after mile 340 is much better. I’m not there yet but today’s walk certainly marked a transition in the landscape.

Yesterday was all dirt roads, and that’s how today started, but before long the trail turned back into single track. I forded Cochetopa Creek—no oxen were lost—and spent some time chatting with Ren and Sundial, a couple that just moved to Windsor CO (that’s very near me). They’re the ones I saw last night. He’s a cardiologist; she’s in supply chain management.

The trail ascended a small ridgeline and I watched the creek twist and turn in elegant curves below. I ran into a CDT hiker and he asked me if I was glad to be getting out of cow patty territory and back into the mountains. I said, “am I out of the cow pasture?” Pretty much, he told me.

I stopped after another creek crossing for a late morning snack. I think I got the nuts from the end of the batch or something—they were completely coated in salt. Costco wouldn’t do that to me!

I entered an open valley with mountains to either side. The storms began to rumble on the other side of the ridge to my right. I put on rain gear. At this elevation, the temperature can change on a dime. Brutally hot, then cold and ominously shadowed, then back again, without fanfare. When the clouds cover the sun and the thunder rumbles, I feel that urge—get inside. You shouldn’t be out here in this.

Yes I should! The path was exposed but I kept walking since I could see a trailhead with a big vault toilet a mile or so ahead. When I arrived I sat under the toilet-roof overhang and watched a man gear up his two horses. He had a plastic cover specially shaped to keep his big hat dry. He left and I admired how his duster protected him from the rain. Lacking a big old leather duster (it looked like it weighed 25lbs on its own), I sheltered in one of the two toilets through some rain but eventually joined a couple down by a tree. I thought about setting up my rainfly and waiting out the rain but decided to press on when the thunder lessened.

I passed Sunshine tenting in a small grove. I took water from a tiny, fabulous rushing stream flowing right across the path. When my water bag was full I slipped on a rock and my correction sent pain through my left foot.

This valley or moraine or whatever it is sure reminds me of one back at mile 45 or so on this trail, right down to the chilling rains. I saw a couple down by the creek on the floor of the valley. They had fly fishing rods. He looked like a model from a fishing magazine; she offered me clementines and was surprised when I demurred. “Are you sure?”

I got to thinking about how annoying it had been to have to sleep on a slope last night. I want a campsite tonight, a proper one. Level, with nice open dirt or needles, preferably the latter. I haven’t seen one since yesterday. Ten feet later, there it was—thank you Norman Vincent Peele! The best campsite I’ve seen in 20 miles. I’m taking it. This rain looks intent on lingering.

So I’m setting up my tent and two other hikers come into view. It’s Julia from yesterday and someone else. The guy looks familiar, but it couldn’t be. It was Baked Potato! I met him a few times on the AT in 2021. Very memorable guy, sort of looks like my dad did in the 1970s—complete with mustache. As we “shook hands” (I went for a fist bump) I felt I was meeting an old friend on the other side of something. Julia waited on trail, not literally tapping her foot, but pretty much. I gave Tater (that’s how he introduces himself now) my contact info so we can connect later.

Rains came and went through the late afternoon. I napped in my tent. I’m at over 10K feet elevation, and wondering if maybe I should have brought just one more layer. Maybe the winter bag would have been a better choice. Tomorrow I’ll try to get over San Luis Pass and below treeline before more forecasted storms. Will attempt summit if conditions favorable.