Project Eveningland

6/14/2023 Wednesday

What do you do when it rains all day? Do you hike through it? Find somewhere dry and take the day off? Try to dodge it by sheltering during the wettest parts of the day?

No one joined us at the shelter last night. I woke up at six and got moving to give us extra time to get to Neil’s pickup point. The tread from the shelter to the road was easy. I bade him farewell at a parking lot with two vans that probably had people sleeping in them. Gosh those vans look dry inside.

After I left him the path got rocky again. Mists came and enveloped the trail. The rain began to “pulse” and get harder and steadier. I decided to stop at the 501 shelter. I forgot that it isn’t a normal shelter! It’s an old building with a caretaker who lives nearby (and must love hikers). It’s old but clean and swept and well maintained. There’s a massive skylight that’s been added. It’s made out of plastic and sits right above the picnic table—it makes you feel like you’re sitting on a picnic table outside under a tree, but you’re inside and warm and dry. There’re bunks with no mattresses that look clean enough to sleep on. Certainly clean enough to nap on!

The rain was steady and comforting against the roof. I fell asleep for around an hour. There was good cell service so I caught up on news and other digital hygiene. Sunshine, a painter whom Neil and I met in Duncannon, was resting on the bunk opposite.

I woke to an older guy with an external pack who came in loudly. When he saw I was awake he asked for shuttle info. That’s a fine how-do-you-do! I didn’t know and said so. I fell back asleep and woke to two younger guys who’re soaking wet coming in. They went about getting dry and warm and fed. Soda was the guy nearer me and I can’t remember the younger bearded guy’s name.

They said the rain was going to clear but I was skeptical. I checked and the forecast had been updated. The big rain was set to end at noon. I started eating the second half of my lunch and packing up. There’s a pizza place that delivers to that shelter, but alas they don’t deliver until four so I won’t get to try it. Bummer—I hear they have everything.

Sunshine and I decided to head out together and continue the very interesting chat we were having. She has views on the ATC similar to my own. She hiked in 2020 and got to Daleville (mile 730 or so) before leaving the trail due to the pandemic. Her views on life seem to be undergoing the same level of revision as my own. Politely inquisitive and engaging. We walked together for around an hour.

I am trying to limit the degree of introspection I’m in engaging in. I feel it my ethical duty to remind all of us, including me, how fucking exhausting that shit is. It’s vital to take the time to practice new ideas and let them sink in, fill out. Cure.

The second half of my walk was challenging and tiring. I listened to Ali Velshi read the Trump Mar-a-Lago indictment. It was on Andrew Weissman’s podcast, Prosecuting Donald Trump.

Lots more swaying ferns, but also jagged and occasionally loose rock. It isn’t that the rocks hurt my ankles; it’s more that the stabilizing muscles and tendons just get exhausted after miles and miles of that stuff. Never mind—I guess it is that the rocks hurt my ankles. The support wraps have been a godsend. Wearing them on both feet makes such a difference.

I stopped around 4:30 to filter water and eat dinner at a former shelter site. The food, water, and rest revived me. I decided to brush my teeth and do all my evening chores right there. Then I hiked for another 1.75 hours or so to reach a campsite listed in the app. I pushed on until 6:30. I set up my tent in a peaceful glade that is near a road but overall quiet. The evening light put me at ease. I may build more of my days around this kind of schedule.

Today I saw many tiny orange salamanders. I stepped over them carefully. They are beautiful and bright and precious! I want to stare at them but there’s no time and I don’t want to stress them out. I also saw a striking bluebird or similar with fine tall plumage in blue, white, and slate.