Project Eveningland

3/12/2023 Sunday

When I looked out the hotel window in the dark this morning, the rain was intense. It flowed down the steep driveway of the Knight’s Inn outside my window. I bought breakfast sandwiches to have for breakfast—the hotel’s offerings were just too underwhelming.

The rain had calmed down somewhat by the time the shuttler picked us up. I found myself wishing the drive in the nice warm car was just a bit longer, but there’s our off-ramp, time to start hiking.

I layered up at Pigeon Forge Bridge before starting. The rain stuck around for a few miles then became fog. The winds picked up as I climbed the hills above Standing Bear. They took on a cruel wet chill. The day was mostly uphill, but the tread is nice and smooth. Snowbird Mountain was all straw-colored grasses, shifting fogs, and bitter cold.

It was a quiet day, a mostly solitary day. I caught up on a Star Trek podcast and lost myself in old trail memories.

The forest shines with moisture. There were a miles-long series of escalating hills just before Max Patch. The trail loves to go right to the top of each. Speaking of Max Patch, the restoration efforts seem to be working. Many fewer scars from tents and campfires up on the patch. I didn’t get the best views—too many clouds for that. I did however get to appreciate the way the clouds seem to rest against the landscape, revealing and occluding in interesting ways. It was a dynamic view.

My body is doing really well. I did 16 miles today and my feet feel tired but strong. I find myself untethered, and at a new phase of the hike. The drama of the Smokies is behind me. My ankles tell me they are ready for big miles. What’s next? What do I want the next part of the hike to be like?

I’m sleeping in my tent at Roaring Fork shelter. It’s a very muddy, marginal spot, but it’s still better than sleeping in the shelter. Bill, Indiana, and Beaker are in there. I had dinner with them. They’re planning to go all the way to Hot Springs tomorrow. I’m going to play it by ear.