Project Eveningland

2/15/2023 Wednesday Day 1

It rained, like they said it would. Dad was indignant that the optimistic forecast he and Mom had gotten that morning (and that I didn’t believe) turned out to be bunk.

But what rain can hold back a determined thru hiker? Mom and Dad drove me downhill (far, far down hill) to the temporary welcome center (a new one is under construction). We all attended the quick class they teach. Dad must have told the guy I was once a volunteer ranger because he jokingly asked if I wanted to teach the course. I said, looking to strike the right tone, “well, I was a Leave No Trace educator for several years, but I’m pretty rusty so why don’t you teach it?” I liked those volunteers and you could tell the basic advice they give is based on long experience. Go slow. Stay at shelter areas to reduce poop impact. Count on cold weather through VA.

We walked down to the stone arch and took pictures. Then I was off. I did not feel, as I once feared I might, like a kid being left off at preschool. I felt amazing. The joy at seeing this opportunity pan out (well, the opportunity to start the trail again anyway) persisted and kept me warm if not dry. In fact, seeing that one can finish a book, that one can recover from injury and illness, that one can save money and meet a goal, that one can have a second chance… well, it’s left me in a dilemma as a modern postmodern type. I spend my adult life working in a discipline where structural forces are THE forces to contend with in life. But then when individual agency (say, a decision you make and pursue and carry out to your own benefit) pays off, it leaves me feeling downright sheepish.

The first part of the trail is a climb up several hundred stairs beside a tall, showy-but-not-proud waterfall. Following that is just your standard up and down in brown forest with soothing sweeps of green from fir or rhododendron or in one case I think holly? I discovered at the first real creek crossing that my filter is caput. Shit. Even vigorous backflushing (thus using up precious clean water) got it to produce only a trickle. I can replace it at Neels but that’s 30 miles away. Will have to find a way to live with a very very slow filter for the next few days. Only other gear malfunctions are me forgetting a lighter (which I hardly need) and a bottle for, um, peeing in in the tent.

I lunched on some mossy rocks. I sat on them I mean. Ham and cheese on a spinach wrap. More nuts. Or Mom would probably point out that they are seeds (sunflower seeds and pepitas are my mix of choice).

Met three other hikers and all of us are currently hanging out at Springer Shelter in the rain (I can’t believe I actually thought about tenting tonight!). Mitch (“Captain Chaos”) is a journeyman in Michigan who does HVAC. His girlfriend gave him that nickname but he doesn’t seem chaotic. For one thing, he was smart enough to know to stop short on the first day, which I wasn’t smart enough to know last time. Ten Day (didn’t get her actual name) lives in the Springs (CO Springs) and is also an educator. Bill is up in the shelter loft. Met him on trail. Bit of a novice. Retiree from New Jersey who’s getting out now that the kids are on their own.

The mists hung around well into the evening. I became gladder and gladder of my choice to sleep in the shelter tonight.

I learned from Mitchell (who does HVAC remember) that if “they” ask you if you know “how to change out a urinal,” say no, even if you do. Bill, who it transpires, is a former cop, strikes me as very easy going but also maybe a tad credulous? He talked about these police drug specialists who can tell what a person is “on” by looking into their eyes. I don’t know when I’ve worked harder to say, politely, “bullshit,” because he’s such a good dude. Also, the guy packed Gatorade in a camelbak so he’s got enough trouble to be going on with.

Ten Day is an outgoing, direct person who’s not afraid to ask for small favors. That’s a disarming feature in my opinion. It gives people openings. She’s on a shoestring and has a broken toe that’s still healing. Also, an admirable thing about Ten Day: she can really put away a bag of chili mac.

We had lots of time to relax in the shelter since we are all smart enough to be doing low mileage. The mists thickened as the evening wore on. I ate extra nuts (seeds) to keep me warm, though it’s not going to be that cold at night.

The contrast between my two first days on the AT is striking. Both times my high mood got me through the rain, but this time it was so much easier, because having an umbrella, better equipment, and more knowledge makes for a better hike.